6 Things To Know Before Using Glycolic Acid On Your Face, Expert Tells

Glycolic acid has become a skincare favourite for achieving smoother, brighter, and more even-toned skin. From serums to toners and peels, this active ingredient is widely promoted for exfoliation and glow. However, experts caution that glycolic acid is not to be used lightly, and improper usage can lead to skin barrier damage and aggravation of already existing skin problems.

In an exclusive interaction with the editorial team of Onlymyhealth, Dr Ruben Bhasin Passi, Consultant Dermatologist at CK Birla Hospital, Gurugram, explained a few important things to know before you start using glycolic acid in your skincare routine.

6 Things To Know Before Using Glycolic Acid On Your Face

According to Dr Passi, here are six things you need to know:

1. Know the Real Nature of Glycolic Acid

Glycolic acid belongs to the AHA (Alpha Hydroxy Acid) family. It works by breaking the bonds between dead skin cells, allowing them to shed more easily. The exfoliation makes the skin underneath visible, thus improving the skin texture and giving it a bright look. However, due to the small size of its molecule, glycolic acid goes deep into the skin, which is the reason for its power and (when compared to other AHAs) its potential to irritate more.

2. Beginners Must Start With Low Concentrations

High-strength glycolic acid products are usually the first thing tried by people who have no experience with the product. As per Dr Passi, low concentrations should always be chosen by beginners as the skin gradually adapts to chemical work. “Skin that is not accustomed to chemical exfoliation is likely to suffer from stinging, burning, redness, and peeling when it happens suddenly and without the proper gradation,” she said.

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3. Overuse Can Damage Your Skin Barrier

When it comes to glycolic acid, the saying more is better does not apply. The skin barrier can be easily compromised by frequent or excessive use, which may lead to dryness, flaking, sensitivity, and inflammation. Dr Passi cautioned that damage to the barrier can make the skin more susceptible to infections, acne outbreaks, and long-term sensitivity. Therefore, it is important to limit the application to once or twice a week at the beginning.

4. Sun Sensitivity Is Non-Negotiable

Glycolic acid considerably enhances the skin's vulnerability to sunlight. If the photo-protection is neglected, the chances of sunburn, pigmentation, and earlier ageing are raised. "Sunscreen is not a negotiation. A broad-spectrum SPF of at least 30 should be applied every day during glycolic acid treatment, even if you are indoors or it is a cloudy day,” highlighted Dr Passi.

5. Avoid Mixing With Strong Actives Randomly

Without proper supervision, layering glycolic acid with other powerful actives like retinol or vitamin C may be too much for the skin. This mixture may result in irritation, redness, and heavy peeling. Dr Passi recommended professional consultation before combining actives or using them on alternate days rather than at the same time.

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6. Not Suitable for Everyone

Glycolic acid is not recommended for those with extremely sensitive skin, rosacea, or active acne unless a dermatologist prescribes it. In these situations, it may aggravate the inflammation and slow down the healing process. A tailored skincare routine is necessary, especially for sensitive or reactive skin types. 

Dr Passi shared, “Glycolic acid is a very strong exfoliating active, and it should be used with care. If appropriately used, improvement is seen in texture, pigmentation, and glow, but if misused, it can do more harm than good.”

Bottomline

Glycolic acid has the power to change your skin, but it will be effective only when used with caution, in the right amount, and together with sun protection.