Is Glycolic Acid An AM or PM Skincare Product, Know From A Dermat

Glycolic acid has become a darling of contemporary skincare due to its power to change dull and uneven skin into a brighter, smoother version. From fading pigmentation to unclogging pores and improving skin texture, this alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) is often hailed as a multitasking hero. However, the question of when to use glycolic acid still confuses many skincare enthusiasts. 

In an exclusive interaction with the editorial team of Onlymyhealth, Dr Ruben Bhasin Passi, Consultant Dermatologist at CK Birla Hospital, Gurugram, agreed that when it comes to skin care, timing is as important as the ingredients themselves. Read ahead to know if you should use glycolic acid in the morning or at night, and how to reap the most benefits.

What Is Glycolic Acid?

Glycolic acid is an AHA derived from sugarcane and is known for its small molecular size, which allows it to penetrate the skin easily. It works by gently shedding the uppermost layer of dead skin cells, thus making the skin fresher and smoother. Regular application of glycolic acid can improve the condition of acne marks, skin tone, fine lines, and texture.

However, this deep exfoliating action is also the reason why glycolic acid needs to be used with caution, and at the right time of day.

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AM or PM: What’s the Right Time to Use Glycolic Acid?

Dr Passi recommended that glycolic acid be applied only at night. "Glycolic acid is most effective when incorporated into the PM (night-time) skincare routine. It is a skin-shedding agent that melts away the dead cells formed on the barrier layer. Consequently, the person's skin becomes more prone to the sun's rays. I strongly suggest that you avoid posting in the morning because it may cause irritation, pigmentation, and most importantly, sunscreen may be less effective," she explained.

Why Nighttime Use Works Best for Glycolic Acid

During nighttime, our skin naturally repairs and regenerates itself. The use of glycolic acid at night enables its ingredient to be effective without any interruption caused by the sun, pollution, or heat.

Dr Passi mentioned, “Glycolic acid is most helpful when used at night, as it allows your skin time to recover when you’re sleeping. It is advised that you use glycolic acid after washing your face, followed by a moisturising cream that soothes the skin.”

This recovery period allows the skin to be less irritated while maximising the exfoliating benefits.

ALSO READ- Glycolic Acid Vs Hyaluronic Acid: Which Is The Best For Your Skin? Expert Answers

How to Use Glycolic Acid Safely

If you are going to use glycolic acid, make sure your routine is easy to follow. Here’s what Dr Passi recommended:

• Gently wash your face with a mild cleanser
• Apply glycolic acid (toner, serum, or cream)
• Follow up with a calming, hydrating moisturiser

Unless specified by a dermatologist, don't mix it with other active ingredients such as retinol, vitamin C, or benzoyl peroxide on the same night. Dr Passi said, “You shouldn't complicate your routine when using glycolic acid. A broad-spectrum sunscreen is a MUST the next morning.”

Who Should Be Extra Careful Before Using Glycolic Acid?

People with delicate skin, rosacea, eczema, or a compromised skin barrier should begin with small doses (5 to 7%) and limit application to one to two times per week. A patch test is crucial before the full application to the face.

Bottomline

Glycolic acid is strictly a PM skincare ingredient; using it at night ensures effective exfoliation while minimising sun damage, irritation, and pigmentation risks.