Why Do Retinoids Make Your Skin Worse Before It Gets Better? Expert Tells

Retinoids are renowned as one of the best anti-ageing, acne, and skin tone evening products in the skincare arsenal. However, if you've begun using them and experienced breakouts, flakiness, or irritation, don't panic because you're not alone. This short-term phenomenon often referred to as retinoid purge is unsettling, but it's often just a part of the skin settling process. 

Therefore we reached out to our expert, Dr Pravin Banodkar, MBBS, DNB, DD (UK), FIDP Dermatology, Co-Founder and Lead Dermatologist of Skin Beyond Borders, Mumbai. And, he explained that knowing why retinoids make your skin worse before it gets better can help you to remain disciplined and reward you with long-term benefits. Here is what he shared with us.

What Is the Retinoid Purge?

When you begin applying retinoids, such as retinol, tretinoin, or adapalene, they increase skin cell turnover. Your skin is getting rid of old cells and making new ones faster than normal. This sounds wonderful, but it also causes hidden congestion to rise to the surface prematurely, resulting in:

• Breakouts
• Dryness
• Redness
• Peeling
• Sensitivity

“This isn't a sign of damage. It's the skin adjusting to a strong active ingredient,” Dr Banodkar said.

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Why Does the Skin Get Worse at First?

Here are a few reasons why retinoids make your skin worse before it gets better:

1. Cell Turnover is Speeded Up

Retinoids drive out blocked oil, dirt, and dead skin cells from deeper skin layers. As everything moves upward to the surface, it can cause pimples and clogged pores, particularly in acne-prone skin.

2. Disruption of the Barrier

“Your skin barrier might feel disrupted initially. Since retinoids are drying, the skin might lose its moisture, leading to flaking and irritation until the skin gets used to it,” he added.

3. Sensitivity is Enhanced

Retinoids sensitise the skin to outside factors such as sun, harsh cleaners, and actives. Studies suggest that's why redness and minor inflammation are usual in the beginning.

4. Adjustment Period

Skin takes time to adjust and develop tolerance. Going in with a high concentration or excessive use raises the potential for irritation.

How Long Does the Purging Last?

The purging stage is usually two to six weeks long based on your skin type, the potency of the retinoid, and usage frequency. If it gets worse after eight to 12 weeks or fresh breakouts occur where you don't normally break out, it isn't purging, it is probably irritation or a reaction.

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How to Minimise the Side Effects of Retinoids

Here are a few expert-approved ways to minimise the side effects of retinoids:

1. Start Low and Slow

Start with a weak concentration (0.025%–0.05%) and use one to two times a week and increase frequency gradually.

2. The Sandwich Method

Apply retinoid after cleaning and moisturising your face to cushion irritation.

3. Moisturise Liberally

Hydration helps in barrier recovery and prevents flaking. Therefore, use a thick quote of moisturiser.

4. Skip Other Actives Early On

Avoid actives such as AHAs, BHAs, vitamin C, and exfoliating scrubs while during the first few weeks of using retinoids.

5. Use Sunscreen Daily

Retinoids increase sun sensitivity. Therefore, Dr Banodkar suggested that a SPF 30+ is essential.

“If irritation is extreme, decrease use or seek consultation from a dermatologist,” he cautioned.

Why Is Retenoid Worth the Wait

Dr Banodkar highlighted that after the purging period ends, retinoids start showing their full payoff:

• Fewer fine lines and wrinkles
• Faded acne scars and hyperpigmentation
• Smoother, clearer texture of skin
• Oily production in balance
• Decreased breakouts over time

Bottomline

Dr Banodkar concluded by saying that consistency is key, short-term discomfort usually results in long-term outcomes. However, if you experience intense redness, burning, swelling, or persistent breakouts, it may be a sign of overuse, an unsuitable formula, or an allergic reaction. A dermatologist can adjust your routine or recommend a gentler option.