Are Waterless Skincare Products Better for Your Skin? Experts Weigh In

What Does Waterless Skincare Mean?

Waterless skincare is known for its unique property of being made completely out of water, meaning they don’t contain any aqueous ingredients at all. According to Dr Verma, “Waterless skincare refers to products formulated without added water (aqua), which is typically the main base in conventional skincare. Instead, they use oils, butters, waxes, or botanical extracts. These formulas are typically more concentrated and anhydrous, resulting in a different texture and delivery.”

Waterless skincare takes the water out of the formula completely, whereas in traditional products, the inclusion of water may be up to 70%-80% of the formula. Dr Verma explained, “These products contain oils, butters/waxes, or powdered botanicals as the base. In waterless skincare, you are basically receiving an increased number of actives and a reduced number of fillers.”

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Do Waterless Products Work Better?

Waterless skincare tends to contain more active ingredients compared to traditional products, which require water dilution. Using this technique, waterless skincare works faster and showcases an increased impact using less product. Dr Verma explains, “With waterless skin care, or with decorative cosmetics, be it a vitamin C balm or a solid serum stick, waterless products tend to take effect a little faster and more clearly, as long as your skin is not allergic to denser textures.”

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Are Waterless Products Better Than Water-based Products?

When a new skincare product makes headlines, there’s always a debate on how it is better than the existing ones. As per Dr Verma, “In many cases, yes, waterless skincare is better.” Without water, there’s less need for preservatives and emulsifiers, so formulations often contain a higher percentage of active ingredients. “However, ‘potency’ also depends on ingredient stability and skin compatibility; some actives require water for optimal function or absorption,” advised Dr Verma.

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Is Waterless Skincare Better For Sensitive or Acne-Prone Skin?

Be it hydrous or anhydrous, skincare has always been a point of contention for sensitive and acne-prone skin. Using new and experimental skincare can be a daunting experience for many, especially those with existing skin problems. According to Dr Verma, Waterless skincare is better, especially for sensitive skin. Waterless products tend to have fewer preservatives and irritants. However, for acne-prone skin, some waterless products (especially oil-based ones) may clog pores if not formulated properly. Better to use with caution in oily skin.”

Is Waterless Skincare More Sustainable?

Waterless products use less water in both formulation and packaging, and they often require smaller containers and lower transport weight, reducing carbon footprint. They also generally last longer due to their concentrated nature. “However, sustainability also depends on sourcing, manufacturing practices, and the materials used for packaging,” said Dr Verma.

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Downsides of Waterless Skincare

• Greasy: Waterless products can feel heavier or greasier due to the absence of water. 
• Higher Concentration: Absence of water means no dilution and more concentrated ingredients. 
• Shelf Life Instability: Shelf life can vary in waterless skincare: some are more stable, while others (especially natural oils or extracts) can oxidise if not stored properly.
• Expensive: Due to their powder and oil texture and more concentrated products, waterless skincare tends to fall in the category of expensive skincare products.

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Bottom Line: Better Than Water-Based Skincare for Some

Waterless skincare is more concentrated and cleaner. However, its shelf life is often shorter than other products with water-based ones. But, since all skin types are different, people with sensitive skin might face issues with waterless skincare. Moreover, it is also more concentrated, making it easier to use for oily or combination skin, but it does not fit everyone. But, in any case, you can make room on your shelf, not the least for an ingredients-aware and eco-curious foodie.